Exploring Montmartre: An Alternative Guide to the 18รจme

Although I do love a good stroll through the Place du Tertre to the sounds of an accordionist playing โ€œLa Vie en Rose,โ€ idling around the Sacrรฉ-Coeur, and savouring a crรจme brรปlรฉe at the Amรฉlie Cafรฉ, I also revel in unearthing the 18th arrondissementโ€™s lesser-known, local haunts. Looking to discover the neighbourhood from a local perspective? Here is an alternative guide to exploring Montmartre and its surroundings.

Photo courtesy of Cafรฉ Lomi, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Cafรฉ Lomi

Where to eat

Start your day by grabbing coffee at Cafรฉ Tabac Paris. Located just a five-minute walk from Abbesses metro station, here is where the locals begin theirs. Take a seat and enjoy their adorable space or take your beverage to go and explore the streets of Montmartre. And if you need a second latte to brave the Sacrรฉ Coeurโ€™s steps, head to Cafรฉ Lomi. If this spot sounds familiar, itโ€™s because theyโ€™re the brewers behind the coffee at Shakespeare and Company Cafรฉ).

Photo courtesy of Pain Pain, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Pain Pain

Next, donโ€™t forget to pick up dessert from the irresistible, La Bossue along with a baguette or croissant from Pain Pain – for later of course!

Photo courtesy of La REcyclerie, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of La REcyclerie

If youโ€™re looking to take a break in an eco-friendly locale with a laptop or book in tow, a visit to La REcyclerie is a welcome change from Parisโ€™ hustle and bustle. Nestled near Porte de Clignancourt, this converted train station houses a restaurant/cafe, an outdoor terrace, a garden, an urban farm (with a weekly market), among other delights.

Photo courtesy of Soul Kitchen, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Soul Kitchen

For foodies, Melbourneโ€™s much-loved Hardware Sociรฉtรฉ serves a killer brunch and coffee from Australian roasters, Padre. Soul Kitchen is great for healthy fare or a latte, whileย rue Ordenerโ€™s Sunset dishes out breakfast (and weekend brunch) and lunch on their terrace, along with dinner and cocktails when the sun goes down.

Photo courtesy of Brasserie Barbeฬ€s, by Julie Ansiau, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Brasserie Barbeฬ€s / by Julie Ansiau

Take the time to walk around this neighbourhood and donโ€™t be afraid to get lost – the 18th arrondissement has plenty more to offer on the outskirts of the butte. Located just off of Montmartre in the Barbรจs quarter, the appropriately named Brasserie Barbรจs is the local and hip brasserie in town in a previously seedy part of town that is undergoing gentrification. It’s also where youโ€™ll spot several French artists and stars on the terrace come summer.ย From Barbรจs onwards to Pigalle, where the same owners recently opened the much anticipated Bouillon Pigalle. Serving up traditional French fare with a modern twist, this 19th century-inspired eatery is where Parisians can dine – and spend (this place is easy on the wallet) – just like they used to back in the day (hence, the name bouillon). I almost always indulge in their oeuf mayonnaise, steak-frites, and chocolate profiterole,ย all of it washed down with their house red wine.

Photo courtesy of Roberta, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Roberta

Steps away from rue des Abbesses, Robertaโ€™s large space houses an Italian restaurant, a butcher, cheese, and fresh pasta counter, along with a fine goods shop.ย Gloriaย and Vava are tiny gems just waiting to be discovered. The former,ย on rue dโ€™Orsel, serves irresistible tapas (or comidinhas) whipped up by their Brazilian chef along with wine and cocktails to match their small bites, while the latter, on rue Vรฉron, creates small dishes perfect for sharing using Mediterranean-inspired seasonal produce.ย ย 

Photo courtesy of Bulot Bulot / by Yann Deret, Paris, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Bulot Bulot / by Yann Deret

Nestled on the corner of rue des Martyrs and rue dโ€™Orsel, BULOT BULOT Oyster bar is the perfect happy hour spot as they specialize in fresh, bite-size seafood faves (oysters, whelks, lobster rolls, and much more) that hail from the coast. Their cocktails are also worth sampling, my favourites being their Moscow Mule and Spritz.ย 

Bijou isnโ€™t your average Neapolitan pizza joint. While the price point is higher, think of it as a gourmet experience. How does pizza topped with truffle or Black Angus bresaola and with a dough made of champagne sound? In summer, enjoy their terrace on the airy Place Charles-Dulli at the foot of the historic Thรฉรขtre de l’Atelier to the sound of Montmartreโ€™s local street musicians and an ice-cold bottle of Lambrusco. And for a swanky meal, head to Les Tantes Jeanne. Meat lovers will enjoy their classic French selection that comprises terrine, tartare, and foie gras appetizers, as well as various cuts of meats (including Wagyu beef) as mains.

Photo courtesy of La Rรฉguliรจre / by Maxime Verret / Furniture and space design by Johanna Lapray & Hugo L'Ahellec, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of La Rรฉguliรจre / by Maxime Verret / Furniture and space design by Johanna Lapray & Hugo L’Ahellec

Where to shop

In a sea of tourist shops, Montmartre is also home to a host of charming boutiques that will make gift shopping a breeze. Atelier Nota specializes in stationery, notebooks, pens, and cards,ย Espace Louisetteย sells unique homeware, along with handmade jewellery and purses, while brightly lit La Rรฉguliรจreย is the perfect spot to shop books, art, and break for coffee or tea thanks to their in-house cafe. Right across the street fromย La Rรฉguliรจre, in the heart of Paris’ “Little Africa” (la Goutte d’Or), you’ll findย Maison Chรขteau Rouge, which is where urban streetwear meets African garb (think traditional wax fabrics). Nestled halfway between the Sacrรฉ-Cล“ur and Barbรจs, Isakinโ€™s bold streetwear is the product of rapper turned entrepreneur, Thomas Traorรฉ, who proudly dresses the neighbourhood in tees that boldly state โ€œIci Cโ€™est Barbรจsโ€ and โ€œBarbรจs Beachโ€. Dapper men should head to Sauver le Monde des Hommes for tailored jackets and shirts, stylish tees emblazoned with a Montmartre stitch, as well as smart accessories and products to keep their beards in top shape.

Photo courtesy of Antoine & Lili, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Antoine & Lili

Bothย rue dโ€™Orsel and laย rue des Martyrs have plenty of interesting shopping spots, including several vintage stores and Antoine & Liliย (rue des Martyrs), a colourful boutique that sells everything from clothing, to accessories, and fun knick-knacks. Other quaint shops within walking distance that will effortlessly add flair to your style include Heroines, Make My Dโ€ฆ, and finally, Spree. This concept clothing store recently expanded to include a cafe to their offering. Sip your brew while admiring Spree Cafรฉโ€™s in-house gallery after some shopping right across the street.

Photo courtesy of Spree, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Spree

A pit stop at the eclectic Tombรฉes du Camion boutique may strike you as odd at first due to its decor made up of baby doll heads, but youโ€™ll surely find a memento to take home once you start digging in this vintage-inspired gem. Just a few steps away, visit Little Big Galerie for one-of-a-kind works of art (their focus is photography) made by local French and European artists. Finally, Joel Knafoโ€™s contemporary art gallery displays and sells pieces by street artists Obey (Shepard Fairey), Miss.Tic, and much more.

Where to play

If youโ€™re interested in visiting the Moulin Rouge, how about seeing it from a local perspective? Spend your Saturday night dancing at La Machine du Moulin Rouge next door and come back the following day to enjoy the Bar ร  Bulles (one floor up) and its outdoor terrace located directly behind the windmill.

Photo courtesy of Terrass Hotel, by Christophe Bielsa, Montmartre

Photo courtesy of Terrass Hotel / by Christophe Bielsa

Bring your evening to a close in style at the glamorous Terrass Hotelโ€™s rooftop terrace. Along with breathtaking views of the City of Light (read: Eiffel Tower), they also serve expertly-crafted cocktails. I recommend the Moulin Rouge cocktail. Be sure to arrive before the sun sets as this coveted spot fills up fast!

Coveted Addresses

What are your favourite places to explore in Montmartre? Let me know below!

Editor’s Note: This article was last updated in October 2021.

Opening photo courtesy of Buvette

36 Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.