I’ve been living in Paris for a little over a year now and sometimes I feel like I’ve only scratched the surface. That’s why I was excited to see what I would learn about my new city by joining one of Context Travel’s walking tours. If you’ve been following my travels, you know that my favourite way to get to know a city is through its cuisine, which is why I opted for a food tour of the Marais.
Marché des Enfants Rouge
Known for its bustling food scene, vintage boutiques, and hip coffee shops, the Haut Marais is home to a host of classic French markets and cafes that have stood the test of time alongside new bobo (bourgeois-bohemian) wine bars and specialty shops. Today, both tradition and trends haunt the neighbourhood, making the upper Marais one of the most diverse gastronomic areas in Paris.
Context Travel & the Idea of Deep Travel
Both food and travel are about storytelling, which is exactly what Context Travels aims to convey through their notion of deep travel (the idea of tolerance and understanding for the culture you’re discovering). Their tours differ from most as they are led by professors and experts specializing in disciplines that range from literature, to history, to cuisine (they are docents, not tour guides!). These walking “seminars,” as they’ve been called, never comprise more than six travellers and provide an in-depth history and context on the city you’re exploring.
Before You Go
- The tour lasts between 2.5 – 3 hours.
- Be sure to wear a comfortable pair of shoes.
- It rained when I went on the tour – thankfully, I didn’t forget to bring my umbrella!
- Pack a water bottle for in between food tastings.
- You’ll get lots of food to sample, so be prepared to eat well – it is a food tour after all!
Modern Tastes of the Marais
We begin by exploring the Marché des Enfants Rouge on rue de Bretagne. Named after children who wore red in a nearby orphanage, it’s the oldest covered market in Paris (it dates back to 1615).
Marché des Enfants Rouge
We go on to learn the history of heirloom vegetables, which were the only kind available during the second world war, and how they’ve made a huge comeback in the modern French kitchen. We also learn about the influence of other cultures on France’s cuisine: We stop at Le Traiteur Marocain, a Moroccan food stand that gets quite busy at lunch time, to try a delicious mhajb (stuffed crepe) filled with tomatoes, peppers, and onions.
Marché des Enfants Rouge
We then move to the market’s cheese counter for a lesson on the French staple. From all the different types to the regions they come from, no two French cheeses are alike. During the tour, we comically come to learn that someone once said that there are more types of cheeses in France than there are days in a year (my research led me to Winston Churchill, but if there are any history buffs reading this, do let me know if that’s correct)!
Cheese counter at le Marché des Enfants Rouge
We sample a creamy goat cheese flavoured with a sprig of rosemary (Colline aux Chèvres La Bouyguette), followed by a Morbier au Lait Cru (semi-soft cow’s cheese from Franche-Comté) with a thin black line in the middle. How did this layer of ash find itself in the cheese? Normally used to create a blanket of protection over freshly-made cheese, it’s now become purely aesthetic.
Morbier au Lait Cru from le Marché des Enfants Rouge
Onwards to J. Barthouil, where we discover a selection of high-quality products from all over Europe. They’ve been curating their artisanal products, like smoked salmon and foie gras, since 1929. We’re presented with a selection blinis topped with three of their signature tarama spreads: Smoked cod, crabmeat, and Espelette pepper from the Basque region. This mix of eating Russian blinis with Greek tarama, one with Basque influence, are great examples of the diversity found in today’s modern cuisine here in France.
Next, it’s off to Jacques Genin. Doubling as a chocolate shop and a salon de thé (tea house), we learn of the history of tea time in Paris. Tea houses began when women, who were not allowed in cafes, had nowhere to meet outside of the home. Made by confectioner Jacques Genin, this chocolate shop resembles a luxury jewellery store. Chocolates and candies are laid out like precious baubles while tourists and locals alike enjoy tea and sweets in the backdrop. We’re offered pâtes de fruits and caramel. I normally don’t like caramel but as our docent Rhona points out, these aren’t your typical candies – and she’s right. They’re not sticky or chewy – they melt in your mouth and aren’t too sweet, just like a piece chocolate.
Pâtes de fruits at Jacques Genin
While walking along the rainy streets of Paris (by now it’s raining quite hard, but we’re willing to go a long way for food!), Rhona describes how many North American food trends, like juice bars and weekend brunch, have recently seeped into French culture and are now common among young Parisian bobos. We pass by Wild and the Moon, the newest healthy food joint on the block, and Café Pinson, another organic (bio in French) cafe that serves up a wholesome weekend brunch.
Located near the Marché des Enfants Rouge, our tour comes to a close at BiBoViNo’s lavender-hued wine bar. Forget everything you thought you knew about boxed wine – BiBoViNo’s wine in a box is eco-friendly and unlike bottled wine, their packaging provides a longer shelf life once opened thanks to their vacuum-packed bags.
BiBoViNo
We’re right on time for l’heure de l’apéro as we begin our tasting served alongside a selection of cheese (yes, more cheese!) charcuteries, pâté, and a green mâche salad (lamb’s lettuce) with cornichons (gherkins). We sample a full-bodied red wine from the Loire region – the perfect complement to our meal and conclusion to the tour.
Charcuterie platter & wine tasting at BiBoViNo
The wonderful people over at Context Travel are offering you all 10% off their walking tours by clicking here. If you’d like to book your own culinary tour of the Marais with a 10% discount, you can also do so here. Have you been on one of Context Travel’s tours? Let me know in the comments below!
Note: I was a guest of Context Travel’s “The New Parisian Palate: Modern Tastes of the Marais” tour. As always, all opinions are my own.
This sounds amazing! I just got back from Paris and we stayed in Les Marais. I loved it! Here is a recap and photos from my trip 🙂
http://www.asipofbliss.com/paris
Isn’t it a great area? Looks like you had a wonderful trip – great photos! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Sounds like fun with great food
Definitely was!
We have been to Paris thrice now for sighseeing or for day trips from Paris. Food tour is something new we never thought of and after looking at your amazing pictures actually delicious 😉 we definitely need to try this out next time. Thanks for sharing Sofia!
You’re very welcome! You definitely need to check out the food scene next time you visit 🙂
This looks amazing!!! I had never heard of Context Travel! Will need to look into this for my next trip 🙂
You definitely should! They have lots of tours in plenty of cities 🙂
This looks amazing!! I’ve only been to Paris once, but am dying to go back. If I make it soon, this will definitely be on my list!
xx Hannah
http://thenaturalizednewyorker.com
You really should! Wishing you happy future travels, Hannah!
This looks awesome and the food looks fantastic.
Thanks! It sure was!
Living in paris looks amazing. Great read and lovely pictures.
Thank you! Appreciate the kind words 🙂
Awesome adventure. And boxed wine in France? Who knew?
I know, right? It was delicious – you would never know!
That looks like a really amazing tour. I would love to be on it!
It really was! They have tours in plenty of cities 🙂
food looks fantastic – I could definitely spend some time there. 🙂
It was indeed fantastic!
There is nothing like a great French culinary market and tour! I am dreaming of the days when we used to do those things!
Yup, the markets here are incredible! Context Travel has walking tours in plenty of cities – you should check if your’s is on there 🙂
OMG, I would LOVE to shop in a food market in Paris. Looks incredible. Also that tour looks amazing! A lavender wine bar? Swoon!
It’s really something! Not lavender but lavender coloured – it’s super pretty inside 🙂
Excellent article and a great review of a tour company. I’m always a little wary of taking walking tours because they can be hit or miss, but to be able to experience the vast culinary culture in Paris with a great guide is truly the dream! I’ve worked with fromaggiers & recently passed my 1st level of the Court of the Sommelier’s course, so this is definitely a must for me. Thank you!
Thank you! So am I because I generally don’t enjoy things that are too touristy, but this tour was definitely a hit.
Wow, that’s impressive – you should definitely look into this tour then!
I’ve been to Paris, but never on one of these tours. They look fabulous. And that charcuterie looks to die for!
It was a great way to see the city from another perspective – and yes, the charcuterie was to die for!
Ive always wanted to visit other countries! I think paris would be an amazing place to live, visit and experience. the food you posted pictures of looks amazing and i wish the usa had more markets and what not in all the towns like other countries!
Context Travel offers tours in several US cities – you should check them out 🙂
This looks absolutely amazing. I LOVE that the leaders are docents, absolutely love it.
And now I’m drooling, so all in all, extremely well done 🙂
Yeah, I agree – it’s pretty cool! Thanks 🙂
You actually LIVE in Paris? Wow, I’m so jealous! I e been there once, it’s such a beautiful city! I haven’t been to Les Marais though. It looks like an awesome place to be! Omg all those cheeses! I really want to go back now. I mean, it’s only a five-hour drive from where I live.. 😉
Yes for now – I’m originally from Canada 🙂 You’re so close…you should definitely come back!
Looks like an amazing tour! I’ve been dying to get back to Paris, this is definitely on my list for my trip! I’m quite jealous you’ve been living there, it really is an amazing city!
xo Bree || http://bree-west.com
Thank you! You should definitely give this tour a shot the next time you’re in this lovely city 🙂
I have never been to Paris, but it’s somewhere i would love to go. Beautiful photos. Making me hungry! Xx
Thank you! Hope you get to visit someday 🙂
Definitely going to keep an eye on this blog! I will be going to France for the first time later this year. I’m going to spend some time in Paris, but going specifically to a castle called Domaine Des Estangs. I also want to sail while I’m over there. PS I’m in your Instagram group.
Thank you! That’s amazing – enjoy your trip! See you on Instagram 🙂
I love walking tours and what could be better than one all about food! I appreciate this company’s philosophy.
Agreed! Thanks for reading 🙂
The French food markets are always stunning! My parents live in France so love to visit the markets when over. So jealous – amazing images!
They’re such a great way to discover the city! Wow, your parents are lucky 🙂
Sounds like a wonderful trip, I loved the beautiful produce and I especially love the cheese and meats, this is on my list. Your pictures are amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Agreed – there’s nothing better 🙂 Thanks for reading!
These photos are beautiful! Looks like the perfect place to visit 🙂
Thank you so much!
I’m not even big on cheese, but that photo of all the cheeses made my mouth water! What a fun experience.
Haha, glad to hear that 🙂